We decided not to take Aldebaran to Hatiheu, on the north coast of Nuku Hiva, due to time constraints.

Instead we scored a car ride with Josephine, who was born and raised in Hatiheu. “I’m a special education teacher, I’ve never given a tour before,” she warned us with a laugh. We loaded the Hilux pickup truck with our crew mates (Matt, Diyana, and Melanie) and went on a drive around the island.

Josephine first took us to Ho’oumi, in the south east corner of Nuku Hiva, where there is excellent spring water. We wanted to scope out the dinghy landing to see if we should bring Aldebaran here to load up her water tanks, before heading to the water-parched Tuamotos.

The valleys in Marquesas are so formidable, they were isolated except for access by boat or difficult treks. The French government finally finished a road across to the valleys in the north just 15 years ago. It is peppered with waterfalls and magnificent vistas. Josephine guided us along this road across to the other side of the island.